EVA NYIRI
The second installment of our Young Hungarian Talent feature has us talking with Éva Nyíri, who - similar to Boglárka Csömör - also graduated this year from the Moholy-Nagy University of Art and Design. Her thesis collection has been getting quite a bit of attention as of late, and we can see why.
Read the interview and see more of her work after the jump
Why did you choose to get into fashion?
Really, it was never a question of doing anything else. I never even occurred to me for a minute to try out something else since this is my hobby, and it is how I spend all of my time.
Where do you get your inspiration, and what inspired your thesis collection?
My thesis collection was entitled Black on Black: versatile women’s jackets. This term references four jackets that are almost identical. My primary goal was to rethink the women’s jacket, to create a new direction. My work was really an idea to create a way to modify one jacket four different ways, while giving each type a character all its own. I was able to accomplish this by placing emphasis in different areas: the neck, the shoulders, the chest, and the waist. I also exaggerated these areas to add even more character. The removable areas create a more radical result.
On the four jackets, differences in length, width, a closure played a role. Besides the form, function also played a role. A added emphasis to those areas of the body that are more sensitive, and require more protection. I chose to mimic armor as the jacket and armor play a similar role in giving protection to the wearer.
When designing, the ancient Samurai armor and today’s shiny Transformer-type robots gave the inspiration. I tried to add both elements so that the main characteristics of armor would come to mind, while keeping the aesthetic bold and robust.
The goal was to make a constructive mechanism. When designing and creating, I found it important that the final work would mirror my point of departure: Samurai armor and robots. The four jackets can be used together to create a fifth silhouette. This is the essence of the collection.
Besides Samurais and Transformers, I was also inspired by films and music such as Dune, Blade Runner, Ghost in the shell, The City of Lost Children, Terminator, Portishead… Not only the mood and the surreal world seen in these movies have inspired and continue to inspire me, but their messages too. Also, the surreal world of Dutch designers, Viktor&Rolf also influence me in a big way.
From the beginning, it was evident that I would refrain from using colours, since the emphasis was on the silhouette, and the use of colours would confuse the whole composition. Bright colours would also have placed emphasis on other motifs. And besides, I was always attracted to using different shades of black together.
As far as the materials go, I looked for something that would place the most emphasis on the fact that the pieces were removable, and interchangeable. This is why I went with a shiny and matt finishes, which allowed me to remove the form from the jacket itself. I ended up choosing a cracked patent, and wool.
To bind the separate pieces, I used a black, woven rope, which was inspired by the silk rope used to bind ancient Samurai armor.
We were given a year to design the thesis collection from September, but really, the large portion was started in January and February. The idea first came to me when I was at the London College of Fashion, and had the chance to view several museums and galleries including the Japanese section of the British Musuem, which had a huge affect on me.
What do you feel is your biggest success to date?
My thesis collection. I am very content with how it worked out. It’s exactly how I had hoped. All feedback so far has been positive which is great too.
What are your thoughts about the Hungarian fashion industry and your contemporaries? Who’s work do you admire?
If I’d have to mention a local designer, I’d have to got with Anh Tuan-t and Dora Mojzes. They make great stuff that’s on par with the best that’s out there.
Where do you see yourself in a few years?
I know what I want know: to continue my last work. I see a lot of opportunity with it that I would like to create. As far as the future, I hope I can continue doing what I love. That’s the most important, regardless of where I am.
photo: Viszlay Márk
make up: Vörös Renáta
haie: Tüzes Tamás (Hairclub)
model: Sara (Face)
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